It's Time to Take Stock

I taught Basic Food Preparation at Penn State in the Foods Lab for the Nutritional Sciences department for almost two decades. Each semester, I got a comment from a student that made me realize that my instructor’s position there was worthwhile.   One semester, a nutritional sciences major approached me at the end of class and said earnestly, “Thanks for teaching me how to make stock.  I never knew that you could make it yourself; I thought that it came out of cans, though I think that my grandma knows something about it.”

Yes—grandmas know about making stock. Grandma’s Frozen Egg Noodles are the perfect complement to homemade stock, so here is a lesson on stock—just in time for Thanksgiving. You can get a head start on the most delicious Thanksgiving dinner by starting early in the week with a big batch of homemade turkey stock to guarantee tasty stuffing, the best gravy of all times, and a headstart on a Turkey Vegetable Egg Noodle Soup to make the most of that holiday bird. 

Stock is the foundation, the fundamental building block in the kitchen.  The French word for stock, fond, implies its essential nature.  The word “stock,” first used in the 18th century, derives from an old Germanic root meaning “tree trunk.” The word “broth” is a more ancient term that goes back to 1000 CE, also derived from the Germanic root bru, which means “to prepare by boiling.” 

Stocks are made by simmering meat, poultry, fish, or vegetables in water over a period of time to extract nutrients, flavor and, when bones are used, gelatin.  Making stock can be a way to maximize kitchen economy, because bones that may have been discarded can provide the basis of another meal or two when combined with vegetable trimmings destined for the compost pile.

White stocks are typically made of raw bones from poultry or fish and involve covering the bones with water and bringing the water to a simmer over medium heat.  As the water heats, albuminous proteins (water-soluble proteins) coagulate on the surface, unappetizingly called “scum.” This accumulation should be gently lifted and discarded before proceeding with the next phase of the stock development, which is adding vegetables, herbs, and some seasoning for flavor. Salt is not added when making stock because long cooking significantly reduces the amount of liquid, and the finished product would be too salty if it had gone in at the beginning.  The stock should be seasoned with salt when it is strained after completing the cooking time or not at all—just season the finished dish.

Brown stocks are typically made from roasted beef and veal bones and achieve their rich, dark color by first browning the bones in a hot oven and then browning the vegetables before they are added to the stockpot.  Water, previously made stock, or wine is used to “deglaze” the roasting pan by scraping up every browned bit of caramelized drippings.  Lamb, venison, or other game bones have a more limited use, making stocks for recipes using the same animal species because the flavor is pronounced.  Pork stock can be made from pork bones, if you have them, and it is particularly sweet-tasting.  Ham stock requires a ham still on the bone and is delicious in a Ham Pot Pie, a classic Pennsylvania Dutch noodle dish with no crust at all.  Meat bones, like veal and beef, can also be used to make white stock variations without browning, though they are usually blanched first, and duck or other poultry can be browned first, though that is not the usual method.

After the scum rises and is removed, mirepoix, the classic ratio of chopped onions (2 parts) to chopped carrots and celery (one part each.) is added to the stockpot.  A clove or two of garlic can be included, if desired, along with a sprig each of parsley and thyme, a bay leaf, and some peppercorns.  Brown stock benefits from a bit of tomato product, either fresh or a dab of tomato paste, as the acid helps to extract more nutrients from the bones. 

Fish stock or vegetable stocks take about 30 to 40 minutes to make; chicken stock, depending on the size of the batch, should simmer for 1½ to 3 hours and brown stock for 5 to 8 hours.  The long, slow simmering of an uncovered stock pot extracts nutrients, minerals, fats and flavors from the ingredients—and fills your kitchen with a heady and aromatic steam that is the perfect tonic for a cold winter’s day.

Vegetable stock and fish stock don’t require long cooking times to maximize the flavor. Generally, each can be made is less than an hour. 

Time permitting, it is best to make your stock at least a day before you plan to use it so that you can strain the solids through damp cheesecloth and chill the stock overnight.  The fat rises conveniently to the top, can be lifted off, saved for specific use, or discarded.  Cooling your stock in small batches is best since bacteria grow most rapidly between 39°F and 140°F.  After straining to remove the solids, the stock can be placed in shallow pans no more than 4 inches deep to bring the temperature down before refrigerating.

Soups made from homemade stock have an incomparable depth of flavor and provide the basis for several quick suppers throughout the week when teamed with egg noodles, bread, and salad.  Basing a meal around soup is a very healthy way to eat since the water in the soup makes you feel fuller and more satisfied.  And all that glorious steam replenishes the moisture in your home that has evaporated due to forced air heat or the wood stove.  

Make some stock and then your favorite soup.  Grandma would be proud.

Quick Recipe for Homemade Chicken Stock

This recipe was devised for the lab by my great chef-assistant, Tom Douthit, who tailored the recipe to our 2-hour time limit.

Yield:  about 2 quarts  

3 pounds chicken bones (chicken backs are fine, unless you want to use cooked chicken in another recipe) 

4 ounces onion, diced

2 ounces carrot, diced

2 ounces celery, diced

1 bay leaf

6 peppercorns

2 sprigs thyme

2 sprigs parsley

2 cloves garlic

Rinse the bones and place in a deep, narrow stock pot. Cover with cold water until the level of the water is between 1 and 2 inches above the chicken.  Bring to a boil over a low heat.  This will take about 45 minutes or so. Reduce to a simmer and skim off any scum as it rises to the surface.  When the liquid reaches a boil add another cup or so of cold water so more scum rises.  When just a froth remains on the surface, add mirepoix (the onions, carrots and celery) and seasoning and herbs. Continue to simmer for an additional hour.  Strain the stock through damp cheesecloth placed over a large strainer or colander and chill the stock quickly before refrigerating.  Remove the fat that solidifies on the surface.   

Note: One way to boost the gelatin in chicken stock is to add chicken feet, which are available at some grocery stores or at Asian markets.

Some key points about the differences between broth, stock and bone broth:

• Stock is made by simmering bones to produce gelatin that gives deep flavor and rich mouthfeel. White stock is made from raw bones and brown stock is made with roasted bones.
• Broth is made by simmering meat (though sometimes with bones) and has a lighter body but more meat or poultry flavor
• These definitions are not regulated or even agreed upon and the terms stock and broth are often used interchangeably.
• Bone broth is a misnomer as it is stock made with lots of bones and cooked for a long time to break the collagen protein chains into gelatin. It is very popular nowadays for those who follow a Keto or Paleo diet. Vinegar is added to help break down the bones and release minerals like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. 
• Vegetable broth can get an umami boost by adding nutritional yeast when cooking the vegetables.
• Broth Bombs are the latest addition to seasoning options. They are similar to boullion cubes with baking soda added to make them fizz. If your dried spices are depleted this could be a good option as each bomb has a distinctive flavor profile. I haven’t tried them but I’m an old fashioned grandma. If they can help you put homemade soup on the table for your family in a hurry, you may be their target audience. 

And what to do when you don’t have 2 hours or 4 hours or 12 hours to make your stocks?

Here’s a recent article about the best supermarket options for stock on the shelf. It can be confusing in the stock/broth aisle with so many options available. However, it is always best to choose a lower sodium version as the sodium content of packaged broth and stock can be sky-high. And you can always add more salt—but never take it out. 

Homemade stock—the perfect complement to those frozen egg noodles that you have on hand in your freezer, ready to star in your next great soup or stew.